The Rise of the $38 Pizza, Exclusive and Elusive

Thomas DeGrezia, who opened the shop last July with Matthew Porter, said he cold-fermented the dough for about three days before letting it rise in an oil-lined pan with grated cheese for 12 hours. (The name is a play on “dodici,” Italian for “12.”) It is cooked for 10 minutes without stretching the dough, resulting in a collapsed, airy crumb. The result is a six-slice pizza that Sofia will sell only by the pie.


John Taggart for The New York Times

If all that seems a lot of bother for pizza, the partners say it reflects the time, labor and cost of making the pies.

“We use all imported flours, and we also use an imported, unfiltered, organic Sicilian olive oil,” said Mr. DeGrezia, who traces his pizza heritage to J& V Pizzeria, which his grandfather helped found in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn, in the 1950s. “Of the four cheeses on it, one is a daily-hand-made, fresh mozzarella, and another is a 36-month red cow Parmigiano-Reggiano that gets shaved on top right before serving.”

The first round of four tickets, for two nights this week, sold out on the day they were announced. The partners plan to offer additional dates for the remainder of May, and to serve the DoughDici a few days weekly through the end of summer.

“We didn’t set out to create a pizza event, but once we realized that we wanted it to be an in-house-only pie to best ensure quality, we decided it needed to be a bit more experiential,” Mr. DeGrezia said. “Since our shop is so small, we added the stools, reservations and drinks.” (The price includes two nonalcoholic drinks.)

On Monday, four friends with 40 years of New York City pizza-eating experience were the first DoughDici customers. Rachel Meakins, 30, a model and a doula, bought the ticket after seeing the pizza on Instagram….

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